TROUBLESHOOTING DAMAGED LASHES 

Unfortunately, not every natural lash line is thick, strong, and healthy. Wether it be genetics or age, damage from previous extensions, or poor aftercare and picking it is likely that we, as lash artists, will experience working with damaged lashes. Deeming lashes “damaged” is not always a kiss of death—there are a few ways to still add extensions while keeping the integrity of the lash line! 

Understand Weight

When working with fine natural lashes you do not want to use a heavy lash or use too many lashes in a fan. Know your lash weights! For the same weight you can use more .03 in a fan than .07 or a single .15. Lighter weight is always going to be the healthiest option. 

Fill the Gaps

For a lash line with gaps you’ll want to use a widened fan to give the illusion of filling the gaps. Only use a wide fan if your client’s natural lash can handle it and always remind your client you can only apply as many lashes as they have naturally. 

Shorter Lengths

Shorter lengths are our best friend when creating density in any set, but it’s especially true when the lash line is not naturally thick. Shorter lengths weigh less than their longer longer counterparts and will make the lash line appear fuller. 

Don’t Lash Every Lash

Lashing every single lash is not always the solution. When we are trying to repair the lash line we want to give the lashes the best chance of completing a full growth cycle. Skip the brand new lashes and watch them become strong enough at the next fill. This also applies to lashes that are at the end of their life cycle, if the base is thin and lighter in color it is about to shed and cannot support any weight. 

After Care

We all know that educating clients on after care is the key to good lashes and retention and that doesn’t change when working with damaged lashes. If they have a thinner lash line to begin with, they will want to maximize everything they can to have good retention. If the clients lashes are suffering because of picking or rubbing it is crucial to explain the consequences and even suggest a removal if they cannot stop. 

Adjust Appointment Frequency 

If your client is committed to lash extensions and rehabbing their lashes, you may suggest coming in more frequently. This will make the lashes look their best while being able to evaluate their lash health. 

Use a Serum 

A growth serum can so helpful in aiding growth. Clients with damaged lashes should be using a serum even while wearing eyelash extensions. 

Suggest a Break 

In some heartbreaking cases, it is best to suggest a break from eyelash extensions all together. Have your clients take at least a 1-2 month break giving the lashes time to go through a full growth cycle. Also suggest using a serum during this time. 

Kourtnie Warden

Certified Lash Extension Artist and Educator.

https://www.lashessential.com/
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